Hello Friends and Fellow Wanderers,
I trust this finds you in serene spirits!
This week, our journey takes us to the Yoga Capital of the World: the fascinating town of Rishikesh in Northern India, nestled on the banks of the sacred Ganges River.
In Part One, we explore a riverside ashram famous for its meditation cave, a site celebrated locally as one of the purest places on Earth!
Part Two will take us deep inside this authentic yogi cave, as we settle amongst the sadhus and seek elevated states of consciousness.
So spark up a stick of incense, settle into the lotus position, and let’s embark on this week’s adventure!
Cave of the Yogis.
Mystical Meditations by the Sacred Ganges River.
I’ve arrived in the incredible town of Rishikesh, eager to dive into this mystical and majestic town along the banks of the sacred Ganges River. While I typically opt for modest accommodations during my travels, this time I've treated myself to a short stay at a rather fancy riverside hotel.
I was initially planning to explore the bustling town solo, but a friend has persuaded me to hire the services of a local tour guide, Rajinder.
“You won’t regret it,” my friend had said. “Rajinder is not just any guide, he will show you a side of Rishikesh that most tourists never get to see.”
I am heading downstairs to meet him in the rather posh surroundings of the hotel lobby, but something seems a bit unusual. A few of the hotel staff have surrounded a young man.
The head porter calls to me.
“You are Mister Grant?” he inquires, his voice somewhat flustered.
“Yes,” I respond, puzzled by the unusual formalities.
“Please come here,” he gestures, and the assembled crowd parts to reveal a handsome, well-dressed young man with a smile that lights up the room. He is on his knees, legs neatly tucked behind him as he leans against a tall patio pillar.
It is a most curious scene.
“Mister Grant, I am Rajinder, are you ready for the tour?” the kneeling man says.
“Sure thing Rajinder, let’s go!”
And with that, he grabs his sandals – but instead of putting them on his feet, he puts them on his hands, and makes his way through the hotel's front lobby on hands and knees. As I follow, I notice his bare, disfigured feet, hanging limply behind him as he crawls.
Regrettably, Rajinder’s disability subjects him to caste-based discrimination – the hotel staff were deliberately attempting to shield him from the view of the other hotel patrons.
Once outside, Rajinder beams with excitement as he unveils our mode of transport – a motorised tricycle. With remarkable agility, he hoists himself onto the driver's seat and gestures for me to hop on behind him. Soon, we're zipping along the lush hillside, the tricycle humming steadily as we follow the river west towards the towering mountains.
"I want to show you a cave," Rajinder shouts over the wind, as he skillfully maneuvers the scooter to the roadside.
A lengthy set of rickety stairs leads us down into the ravine; the sound of the rushing river intensifies with every step. Rajinder, moving with surprising speed on all fours, makes quick work of the descent, and I keep pace, chatting animatedly with him as we go. Between breaths, he shares stories of his beautiful wife and promises to show me a picture of her later.
Upon reaching the final step, we arrive at a ramshackle ashram by the riverfront. Here, cows, goats, dogs, and monkeys mingle freely. The dogs immediately make a beeline for Rajinder, barking playfully and darting towards him. He tries to calm them, but this only excites them further.
"Wherever I go, the dogs think I'm playing," Rajinder says with a hint of distress. "They can get very boisterous and sometimes even try to bite me. In India, street dogs are everywhere – it can be a real challenge."
The dogs are eventually silenced by one of the ashram residents, who introduces himself as Neel. Together we venture forth toward the entrance of a yawning cave. A solitary man, wearing nothing but a loincloth, sits cross legged at the cave’s entrance, chanting in hushed tones from a book of Sanskrit texts. I wonder if perhaps he is late for an appointment, because he is chanting so incredibly fast, snatching quick breaths between each stanza.
“Many Yogis have practiced in this famous cave,” says Neel. “You can sense the vibration of all the Masters who have meditated here, each has left their footprint.”
“How deep does the cave go?” I ask, peering into the darkness.
“It used to be much deeper, but the rear of the cave has been sealed off. There are rumors of a secret passage that leads to a hidden section where yogis live completely isolated from the outside world,” Neel shares, with a hint of mystery in his voice.
“Have there been any miracles performed here?” I inquire, always fascinated by tales of the supernatural.
“Yes indeed,” Neel responds, his eyes lighting up. “Once, a great feast was held here, all the yogis wanted to feed everyone who came. But they realized that there was no ghee for cooking. One yogi said not to worry, to go and fill a pot from the Ganges and to cook with the river water instead of ghee. So they did, but when they began cooking, the water turned into ghee.” Neel pauses, looking at me expectantly.
“Amazing!” I respond, appreciating the story, though by some standards it is a rather modest miracle story. “Would it be possible to go inside the cave?”
“Yes, you are most welcome," Neel responds warmly. "Being a member of this ashram does not give any priority in the cave. Anyone can sit – it is part of the beauty that there is no hierarchy here. This cave is one of the purest places on the Earth. Many who meditate here report a profound experience; their consciousness elevates to levels that normally take years of spiritual practice to achieve.”
I can hardly wait to get inside and experience an elevated level of consciousness!
“I will wait for you here. Please, stay as long as you wish,” Rajinder says.
As I tentatively step into the cave, a sudden darkness envelops me, coupled with a heightened sense of expectancy. In this hallowed space, where the boundary between the physical and spiritual realms seems so thin, anything feels possible.
Who knows? I might witness something truly extraordinary!
End Part One.
Coming up in Part Two:
Join me as I step into the hushed sanctity of the cave. What secrets will be revealed in its ancient shadows? Will the silent whispers of the past grant me the elevated levels of consciousness Neel had promised? What unexpected mysteries will unfold? Join me as we venture deeper into the depths of this sacred grotto, where each step may reveal new insights into the spiritual realm.
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Wishing you a week filled with curiosity, enlightening conversations, and unexpected insights!
✌️❤️
Grant.
Impulsive out there adventures are often the best ones. If they don’t turn out that way, they make for the best stories for years to come. Bring on part 2.